Banitsa, boza and Black Sea fish: eating like a local in Varna

To eat like a local in Varna, start the day with a warm slice of banitsa and a cup of ayran or boza from a neighbourhood bakery, have a shopska salad and cold tarator at lunch, and finish with grilled Black Sea fish by the water. It is simple, seasonal and very Bulgarian.

Breakfast: banitsa from the corner bakery

Banitsa is made from thin filo sheets layered with beaten eggs and white brined cheese (sirene), then baked until golden. Every neighbourhood in Varna has a small bakery – look for a window counter and a queue of people on their way to work. Ask for edno parche banitsa (one piece of banitsa).

Traditional drinks to go with it:

• Ayran – chilled yoghurt diluted with water and a pinch of salt.
• Boza – a thick, slightly sweet and sour fermented grain drink, an acquired taste many people grow to love.

Other bakery favourites include mekitsi (fried dough, often with powdered sugar or jam) and kifli (soft rolls).

Lunch: light and cold

Dish	What it is
Shopska salad	Tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and onion under a snow of grated sirene
Tarator	Cold soup of yoghurt, cucumber, dill, garlic and walnuts
Kyopolou	Roasted aubergine and pepper spread

Dinner: from the Black Sea

Varna is a port city, so seafood is the natural choice in the evening. Look for small fried fish, grilled fish of the day and Black Sea mussels, steamed or served in a light sauce. Ask what is fresh today – the answer changes with the season.

A slow-food routine

1. Buy vegetables and cheese at the morning market.
2. Pick up banitsa or bread at a bakery on the way home.
3. Make a salad and tarator for a lunch in the shade.
4. Walk to the sea for dinner at sunset.

Good to know

• Bakeries open early and the best banitsa often sells out by late morning.
• Yoghurt is a big deal in Bulgaria – try a plain one from the shop with honey.
• In summer, a cold glass of ayran is the local answer to the heat.